Proprietor Helen Durand (a monsieur) has turned out a beauty with the 2001 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Harys (spell it backward and you know what varietal is used). A dense ruby/purple color is followed by sweet vanillin, blackberry liqueur, animal fur, and meat-like aromas. This big, back-strapping, full-bodied Rasteau is not for those seeking understated, elegant wines. It is a full-throttle, muscular 2001 that will repay 2-3 years of cellaring, and keep for 10-12 years. Importer: Garnier International Gourmet, Tucker, GA; tel. (770) 414-0017