Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese, Pfalz, Germany

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There just wasn’t much botrytis,” says Philippi, “and anyhow late botrytis is seldom good botrytis.” Nonetheless, he did essay a small, early picking of 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese. I found this promising wine to be even more shrouded by its youthful sweetness than the Spatlese, but it is impressively rich and creamy, with flavors of malt, baking spices, candied lemon and deep nuttiness and a long finish. It is clear that for all of its creamy richness this will continue to display for decades the elegance and buoyant personality that characterize so many of the best 2004s.Bernd Philippi is always late to assemble the individual barrels, much less bottle most of his dry Rieslings from the Saumagen vineyard, so a proper overall assessment of 2004 here will have to wait another year. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300