The 2009 Carignan "Old Vines" (that means about 25 years old here) is another in Israel's increasing focus on this grape as the region searches for some niche, a hook on which to hang its hat, besides the fiercely competitive field of Bordeaux blends. This is completely delicious and nicely priced. Young and primary, with a bit of an oak overlay at the moment, it is modest in concentration, with ripe tannins. It does show some character, though, developing a touch of earthiness and it is simply a pleasure to drink. It will be best on the younger side, though, as when the friendly fruit fades, there may not be much left of interest. Drink now-2014. Binyamina, Israel's fourth largest winery, is pointing out expensive renovations (14 million euros) to the winery of late. As already noted in my last look at Binyamina releases, there already seemed to be some gradual uptick in quality here, whether or not because of the improvements. In fact, not everything could possibly have kicked in by then or by now. It will be interesting to watch going forward. The chief winemaker is Sasson Ben Aharon, since 2002. Winemaker Assaf Paz, with a degree from Bordeaux, who worked at Navarro, also produces wines for his well regarded family boutique, Vitkin. Consultant Marc Dworkin of Bordeaux fame (working with Stephan von Neipperg) lends a hand as well. In descending order of prestige, at the top Binyamina has the "Chosen" brand, from the Biblical Hoshen Stones; the regular Reserves; the Yogev ("farmer") brand, named in tribute to Binyamina's growers; and the Teva brand, which includes things like Emerald Riesling and Cabernet blush. It is the Chosen series that will be of most interest and rightly so, as they are generally nicely made and quite charming. Their problem tends to be that they can be a bit pricey for what they are. Finally, "The Cave" is Binyamina's boutique brand.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, NJ; tel. (718) 534-0118
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