The new collection begins with the 2009 Chenin Blanc Walla Voila, L’Ecole’s take on Vouvray. The fruit was sourced from a vineyard planted in 1979, quite ancient by Washington standards. Medium straw-colored with an attractive nose of orange blossom, pear and melon, on the palate it is just off-dry with its 1% residual sugar. Easy-going and friendly, it is a wine to enjoy over the next 12-18 months. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now is about to outgrow the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing, no doubt the main reason why L’Ecole seems to have survived the recession without too much pain.Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

You’ll find beautiful, lush, complex, fruit-driven aromas here, as with all the L’Ecole white wines. This captures the complexity of the grape—rarely seen in domestic Chenin Blanc—ripe apples, spice, hints of honey and caramel, and a lovely, persistent floral overtone. In short, this is the Chenin Blanc that should be made, that can be made, and that is rarely made in this state.——P.G.(12/1/2010)—— 90