Grattamacco is clearly trying to build a white wine with modest aging potential. But the 2014 Bolgheri Vermentino offers a weaker vantage point from which to achieve this ambitious goal. I discovered some bottle variation in my samples and remain convinced that this vintage is more shut down and closed compared to past editions. Some 30% of the wine sees contact with oak and the other 70% rests in stainless steel. The fruit used to make this wine boasts a special pedigree. It comes from one of the oldest Vermentino vineyards in Bolgheri that is farmed organically and naturally produces very low yields. I look forward to trying the upcoming 2015 vintage that promises more intensity and overall grandeur.