The 2004 Pinot Noir Reserve, tasted from barrel, was promising in its own way. “I’ve never had a Pinot that ripened this early,” quips Malat, and indeed the aromas here are more of roasted meats, and mushrooms, including a noble hint of truffle, than they are of red and black fruits. Succulent plum and cherry fruit, however, is more than generously present on the palate, complexified by the aforementioned carnal and fungal notes. There is abundant, fine tannin but with juicy insistence and incipient creaminess that carry into a savory finish of fruits, animal scents and forest floor. This would fit in with a tasting of Volnays – not to mention acquit itself well. Various importers including Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870