Peach preserves, candied lemon rind, and a portabella-like note of fungus in the nose of Bott-Geyl’s 2006 Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz Vendange Tardive which comes to the palate intensely bright (it has high acid even by Riesling V.T. standards) and pungently zesty and spicy, but finishes slightly drying despite a certain sharpness and penetration. Bott claims it reminded him of a white Burgundy during its fermentation, but right now – even abstracting from the fact that its high acidity doesn’t translate into genuine vivacity or juiciness – the wine is also struggling to balance its well more than 100 grams of residual sugar. Perhaps this will pull itself together more – its sheer concentration is formidable – but I would cautiously monitor its evolution if I owned any.
The ambitious Jean-Christophe Bott declassified ruthlessly in 2006, reducing by around half what is usually a very long litany of bottlings. Pinot Gris had the hardest time, he indicated; and 2007 was not easy for that variety here, either, because Bott’s holdings in the Furstentum – which had been his quality exception among Pinot Gris in 2006 – were among several of his vineyards hailed-on and declassified. For 2007 Bott did not even begin picking until the third week of October, generally managing to capture well-balanced ripeness, with wines often better-able to handle their residual sugar than I had experienced here in the 2004-2006 vintages.
Various importers, including: Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Polaner Selections, Mount Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244 0404
粵公網(wǎng)安備 44030502006249號