This is Bonny Doon’s unfiltered heavyweight Italian-style blend, and boy, does it have some teeth. At 84% Sangiovese and the rest Barbera and Syrah, this is for fans of rustic, big-muscled reds. Flavor over finesse all the way. Extremely fruity and heavily concentrated, the wine isn’t meant to age for long, but it certainly could. A big-time match for big home-cooked meals.——M.S.(10/1/1999)—— 87