The Colin 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes has me wrinkling my nose in the detection of lemon zest and chalk dust. On its bright, palpably extract-rich palate, honey, fresh lemon, pear, and chalk engage in a lively interchange, leading to a rather tight, bright, austerely chalk- and stone-dominated, yet formidably penetrating finish. Here is a 2007 that needs time in the bottle, and I suspect it should reward up to 5-7 years of cellaring. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524