The 2008 Merlot Seven Hills Vineyard Estate contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc in its blend and was aged for 18 months in 40% new French oak. Aromas of balsam wood, Asian spices, herbs, incense, violets, and black currant inform the nose of a spicy, savory, structured Merlot that is nicely proportioned and lengthy. It is likely to evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2023. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and has now outgrown the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing. Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

L’Ecole is one of the three partners in the Seven Hills vineyard, and sources its grapes from some of the oldest vines. The blend includes 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, tight and spicy at first, then opening into a deeply flavored, brambly wine with a vivid mix of berry and stone. Firm tannins anchor it solidly and the overall structure suggests it could age for at least a decade, maybe two. ——P.G.(11/1/2011)—— 93