The medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1995 Horse Heaven Vineyard Merlot has white pepper dusted blackberries and cassis, as well as stone-like aromas. This well-crafted, structured, delicious wine has tomato, black/red cherry, mocha, and violet flavors in its silky-textured and medium-to-full-bodied personality. Anticipated maturity: now-2004.It's a sign of the times that Chateau Ste. Michelle's Merlots are its most expensive wines. Throughout the wine industry, consumer demand has driven up Merlot prices but not quality. Bulk prices for Merlot are exceedingly high so new vineyards are planted regardless of whether the sight is appropriate. Many of these young vineyards are incapable of producing wines with complexity and depth, yet consumer demand for simple, soft Merlots continues.In general, I preferred Chateau Ste. Michelle's 1995 Merlots more than those from the riper 1994 vintage.Chateau Ste. Michelle's wines are for the most part beautifully made, well-structured and well-defined. While not all of its offerings can be recommended, it amazes me that a large operation can maintain such high standards.Fax: (425) 488-4657.

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