The 1994 Cotes du Rhone reveals a deep ruby/purple color, as well as gobs of intense, earthy, peppery, jammy sweet cherry aromas. This is a tannic, medium to full-bodied, seriously-endowed, old style Cotes du Rhone with some toughness in the finish, but plenty of fruit, flesh, and depth. I am not sure the tannin will ever be fully resolved, but, wow, what a chunky, muscular mouthful of wine. Domaine du Trapadis, run by Helen Durand, is one of Rasteau's emerging stars. These are not shy wines, as they represent the full throttle, rustic, super-concentrated essence of old vines, and the wind and sun-drenched terroir of this part of the southern Rhone Valley. These wines may veer slightly in the direction of being too full-blown and tannic. Yet with a few minor winemaking refinements, this exciting estate could emerge as one of the top names in the southern Rhone.Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415; fax (212) 925-6474