The 2006 Pinot Noir Leland is sourced from a self-rooted vineyard planted in 1983, relatively old-vine by Oregon standards. Light to medium ruby in color, it has a very expressive bouquet and a tighter, racier style than its siblings. Silky-textured, the sweet fruit is surprisingly deep and concentrated. Although it may evolve for a year or two, its pleasures are all there for the taking right now. Erath Winery is one of Oregon’s pioneers with its first vintage occurring in 1972. Dick Erath sold the winery to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates recently but remains the largest grower for the winery (which owns no vineyards). Current production is at 125,000 cases with the Oregon Pinot Noir bottling accounting for almost two-thirds of that total. www.erath.com

Yet another Pinot designate from Erath (how many do they have?!) mixing broad, ripe fruit with some chocolaty oak. The value add here is some of the herbal Oregon spice, which adds highlights missing from some of the other bottlings. Still, it’s broad, friendly and a bit short on the follow-through.——P.G.(7/1/2009)—— 89