The Angerhof 2004 Samling Trockenbeerenauslese reeks of sage flower and pungent, candied citrus zest; coats the palate with honey and persistently pungent resin, sage, and citrus oils; and finishes with a long, spicy, nippy, as well as honeyed expression of botrytis that leaves the palate invigorated rather than laden or overwhelmed with sweetness. This too should keep well for more than a decade. A hint of caramel was creeping into the creamy, refined 2002 version at five years of age. Hans Tschida – who has been working in wine since his childhood – has not worried about living almost literally in the shadow of Alois Kracher (with whom he says he shared many early discussions). Tschida’s sweet elixirs have their own elegant style and class, and he can also lay claim to some of best Eiswein and “Strohwein” (from fruit dried on mats) made anywhere in the world. In recent years, Tschida has begun shipping to the United States, which served to remind me it was high time that I brought his wines to the attention of my readers. Just as chez Kracher, there are two stylistic lines for nobly sweet wines: those that Tschida ferments in stainless steel tanks, he prefers to leave in tank; other wines are fermented and retained in barrique.Importers: Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029; Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com
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