Linden Vineyards Hardscrabble Chardonnay, Virginia, USA

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85 Linden 2001 Hardscrabble Chardonnay (Virginia); $22. Not afraid of using oak, Linden’s Hardscrabble, named after the site in the Blue Ridge Mountains, has toasty vanilla and popcorn aromas that translate to buttery oak in the mouth. It’s backed by nice tropical fruit, but the wine’s body doesn’t quite size up.——M.D.(8/1/2006)—— 85