The estate’s 2004 Chardonnay Riserva della Famiglia is a heavy, full-bodied offering dominated by French oak, creme caramel and butterscotch, with relatively little fruit or verve. Quite frankly, it’s hard to understand the rationale for making a wine like this in Piedmont. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Coppo – one of Piedmont’s historic properties – makes a wide range of wines but they seem to do best when they kept things simple, as some of the wines remain excessively oaked and heavy.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620