Given the superlatives drawn forth by the wines that preceded it here, I keenly anticipated experiencing Hirtzberger’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl. While one could scarcely be disappointed with a wine as lovely as this, for the first time in my recollection it must give ground to the Rotes Tor bottling. Harvested November 15 and finished at 14% alcohol (which it largely hides), this Honivogel offers aromas and flavors of grapefruit, honey, and toasted cashew. Creamy in texture and suffused with a brothy expression of minerality and honeyed hints of nobly concentrated berries, it displays the same stately personality as the Axpoint, but with significantly more refinement. Esterous, honeyed, rich finishing flavors and a faintly alkaline mineral note satisfyingly stain the palate. As usual, do not hesitate to sock some of this away in your cellar for 8-10 years. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Shows a laserlike focus to the aromas and flavors of mineral and spice, with loads of lanolin and almond. White pepper and red grapefruit are also in the mix, giving this well-structured white a rich appeal. Drink now through 2012. 791 cases made.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add