The 2005 Magno Megonio (Gaglioppo) is a dense, powerful offering loaded with dark jammy fruit, earthiness and smoke. This is made in a decidedly riper and more generous style than the lighter Ciro Rosso Classico Riserva Duca San Felice. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Librandi is a good source for wines based on Calabria’s unique, quirky varieties. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Magno Megonio offers beautiful mineral notes behind a curtain of pulsing berry fruit and cola. This wine, made from the promising Magliocco grape, really does have character and exhibits fine winemaking in Calabria, a harsh and often overlooked region of southern Italy. Those drying minerals give the wine balance and persistency on the finish.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 90