The 2009 Chardonnay shows lovely balance in its bright citrus fruit and sweet spices. This is a relatively tight, focused style of Chardonnay that impresses for its energy, focus and overall sense of harmony. The fruit was sourced from the Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills vineyards. The wine was aged on its lees in roughly equal parts oak and steel, with 50% of malolactic fermentation. It is a terrific value in California Chardonnay. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. These are two gorgeous wines from Alta Maria Vineyards, a project headed by James Ontiveros and Paul Wilkins.Tel. (805) 714-1732; aminfo@altamaria.com

No Chardonnay in California is richer or riper than this. It detonates on the palate with an explosion of pineapples, green apples, tangerines, apricots, honey, butterscotch and dusty cinnamon spices. Acidity is pretty and zesty. Would benefit from greater subtlety, but it sure is opulent.——S.H.(9/1/2011)—— 90