The real star among these is the 2005 Lirac La Ferme Romaine, which shows notes of lavender and other wild Provencal herbs, with plenty of pepper and oodles of black cherry fruit in a medium-bodied, pleasure-built style. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. This is an outstanding source for excellent Cotes du Rhones, Liracs, and limited production Chateauneuf du Papes. They are made in a modern style, yet retain Provencal typicity. Always darkly colored with loads of fruit, they are meant to be consumed during their first 8-10 years of life.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Still showing some toasty oak notes, but this is a powerful vintage that should completely integrate the oak within another year or so. Leather and cinnamon accent black cherry fruit in this rich, round, mouthfilling expression of Lirac. Drink 2010-2018.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 91