Smoky oak and restrained fruit mark the nose of this smooth yet tangy offering. The nut and dried fruit flavors are understated—even reserved—and wrapped in spicy oak. Though tasty, it wants a little for integration and stuffing in the midpalate. Still, it has all the right parts, and it’s not about sweetness. Drink now through 2003. ——M.M.(4/1/2002)—— 87