There’s more rhubarb and bramble here than we prefer from a young, everyday Malbec, and thus the bouquet is austere and only skin deep. As might be expected given the aromas, the palate is limited to herbal, lightly pickled red fruit, while the finish is quick and offers some lasting chocolate. Decent wine, but that’s as far as it goes.——M.S.(12/31/2008)—— 84