This artisanal producer tucked away on the steep hillsides of Spring Mountain continues to fashion some of the most concentrated, inky black-colored Cabernet Sauvignons in California. The more I taste the Cabernets of Philip Togni, the more I admire what he has achieved. One of the legendary Philip Togni wines is the 1969 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon, which remains one of the most memorable California Cabernets I have ever had. The Cabernet Sauvignons Togni has produced at his small boutique winery since the early eighties are every bit as profound, if not better than the 1969. In many wines, it is always a battle between the fruit and the tannin, with the tannin often winning out, but Togni's wines are the exception. As a recent vertical tasting proved, his Cabernet Sauvignons from his first vintages in the early eighties remain extraordinary, remarkably young wines that still possess fabulous fruit concentration. Readers never need to worry about the tannin outlasting the fruit at this winery. Recent vintages (the 1995 looks to be the qualitative equivalent of the great 1994) have all been superb, with the 1990, 1991, 1992, 1994, and probably the 1995 all meriting mid-ninety point scores. The 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon is marginally lighter, but this massive example of the vintage is extremely well-endowed, and perhaps underrated vis a vis the other Cabernet Sauvignons.The 1994 Sauvignon Blanc is the last vintage of this wine that Philip Togni will produce. Many vineyards on Spring Mountain are being devastated by a parasitic disease called Pierces. Unfortunately, Togni's tiny Sauvignon Blanc vineyard had to be torn out following the 1994 vintage. There are 300 cases of the crisp, dry, fragrant, and perfumed 1994 Sauvignon Blanc. More than any other Sauvignon, it comes closest to duplicating the style of a top-notch Sancerre. With wonderful melony, herb scents and a provocative, dry, long finish, this flinty wine remains young and vigorous. Tel. (707) 963-3731; Fax (707) 963- 9186
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