The 2005 Chardonnay "Katzrin" (Yarden), revisited this issue, is thinning but shows little if any sign of decay. On the other hand, the passage of time has given the oak some ability to integrate better. After opening a bit flat, this got better and better and I rather liked how this showed, perhaps better than when I first saw it due to the oak integrating to a considerable extent. It still has some time to go. There is not much intensity or acidity apparent, nor much steel and minerality, but it has a little tension, it actually improves with air and some warmth, and there is still some enjoyable fruit. It is quite charming and focused, if a bit reticent, nice performance for an aging Chardonnay. Even though it improved, I'd still be careful about holding this much longer and I continue to be a little cautious on the drinking window. Drink now-2013. The Yarden reviews in this issue are library wines, revisited to see how they are coming along.Importer: Yarden, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 997-9463
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