The 1995 Bourgogne Aligote (from 90-year old vines) is an excellent example of a wine that generally tends to be a thin, acidic, nasty palate bruiser. This lively, crisp Aligote exhibits real character. Drink it over the next several years. The one thing that stands out in the wines reviewed in this segment is their purity, freshness, and focus. Each wine, whether it is the Bourgogne Aligote, Sauvignon Blanc, or Chablis, possesses a distinctive minerality, elegance, and sense of balance. They are not overblown, big wines, nor are they cunningly wooded to seduce tasters. What they offer are gobs of fresh, lively fruit and character.North Berkeley Wines, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and (800) 266-6585; fax (510) 848-0841