Controversial. Grown in the Redwood Valley, a hot part of inland Mendocino, the argument is that the downright cold nights preserve acidity. But it’s overly soft in the mouth, with berry, peppery flavors that are almost Rhone-like. The tannins are silky enough, but the wine lacks that essential Pinot delicacy. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 84