Veronique Drouhin makes this estate chardonnay as she would make it in her native Burgundy. It’s a wine of breed and finesse, with crisp, detailed aromas that reward your attention with nuances of flowers, stone fruit, melon and spice. Precisely-detailed, sculpted and elegant, it is still rather young and unyielding. Unlike most New World white wines, this one definitely needs more years in the bottle. ——P.G.(2/1/2007)—— 89