Here's a wine that shows a nice jump forward in quality since the last time I tasted it. The certified organic 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio a' Frati (made with 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo and finished in a combination of botte and tonneaux for 18 months) reveals a generous, mid-weight approach. It shows dark concentration and plenty of varietal freshness and a bit of kick or tightness from the tannins. Another few years in the bottle should soften them. The wine offers dimension and length, although its personality feels quite austere. The fruit represents a special selection culled from a 12-hectare site at a cool 450 to 500 meters in elevation. Production is 24,000 bottles.