The 2000 Firebreak (94% Sangiovese and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon; 14.8% alcohol) is surprisingly light in the mouth, revealing crisp, tart, strawberry fruit along with a hint of new saddle leather in a medium-bodied, straightforward format. Drink this dark ruby-colored 2000 over the next 2-4 years. Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

The 2000 Firebreak (94% Sangiovese and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon; 14.8% alcohol) is surprisingly light in the mouth, revealing crisp, tart, strawberry fruit along with a hint of new saddle leather in a medium-bodied, straightforward format. Drink this dark ruby-colored 2000 over the next 2-4 years. Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

This is brutally good, as it has been for the past several vintages, although the concentration is off a notch. Only 6% Cabernet Sauvignon from estate vineyards, but it dominates, with massive flavors of blackcurrants. What the 94% Sangiovese brings is notes of cherry, tobacco and earth, and a streak of clean acidity. Defines style and grace in a gigantic wine. Editors’ Choice. ——S.H.(9/1/2003)—— 93