The single-vineyard 2004 Barbera d’Asti Vigna del Noce is richer and deeper than the straight bottling. It, too, has plenty of tertiary complexity, with layers of tobacco, spices, earthiness and licorice that take shape in the glass. The wine has retained excellent freshness, but elements of beefiness and gaminess make this a rather rustic offering. The old vines, maceration on the skins of 45 days and five years in oak might have been too much of a good thing. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Trinchero is one of the most eccentric producers in Asti. The wines see extended time in barrel and are typically released much later than the norm. Admittedly I have mixed feelings about some of these wines, but when they are on, they are nothing short of magnificent. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404