This offering exhibits surprisingly rich fruit, medium body, and a zesty, bone dry, impressively long finish. I would not push my luck on aging dry Muscat. Much of its appeal is the fragrance, which tends to break up after 2-3 years in the bottle. I realize most readers agree that Alsace's white wines are frequently misunderstood, not to mention underrated, but of all the white wine grapes grown in that storybook region, their dry Muscats are the least appreciated by outsiders. When made completely dry, as is the 1990 Muscat-Goldert, Muscat possesses a bouquet that is reminiscent of the interior of a florist's shop on Valentine's day. The intense, floral perfume is a real turn-on.As I said last year, the range of wines produced by Leonard and Olivier Humbrecht in both 1989 and 1990 is a memorable achievement. The 1989s have largely disappeared from the marketplace except for some of the rare, super-expensive Vendange Tardive offerings, but the dry 1990s have just arrived. Importers: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA.
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