Kuhling-Gillot 'Oppenheim' Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany

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Tasted on the heels of a bright yet ultimately rather brittle and austere generic “Qvinterra” Riesling trocken, Gillot’s 2009 Oppenheim Riesling trocken (bottled this year in lieu of a Grosses Gewachs from the Sacktrager) is similarly lemony and tartly refreshing as well as slightly bitter. A waxy texture adds some appeal, and there is certainly more stuffing here (at 13.5% alcohol) than in the corresponding generic, as befits a tendency toward ripeness inherent in this village. This is one of those in my view too-frequent instances where a dry German Riesling is more redoubtable than it is charming. I would plan on drinking this over the next several years.Like her husband Oliver Spanier (of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier), Carolin Gillot – for more about whose estate see in particular my reports in issues 185 and 187 – seems disinclined to tolerates residual sugar in her wines. Whether or not it is for that reason that they elected not to bottle the 28 gram residual sugar successor to the superb Kuhling-Gillot 2008 Gewurztraminer feinherb, I do wish I’d had chance to satisfy my curiosity by sampling that wine from cask. (I missed out also on sampling this year’s Kuhling-Gillot Pinot Gris from bottle.)Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799