The young, bright, and ever-smiling Nicolas Potel put it bluntly. "1998 is not a great vintage, simply because we didn't have sufficient ripeness." The 1998 Bonnes Mares is medium to dark ruby-colored , and offers a grapy, plummy nose. Medium-bodied, dense, concentrated, and masculine, this is a deep, intense, harmonious wine. Loads of sweet black fruits can be found throughout its character and long, pure finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. A Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, also Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.