The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is a tighter, darker and ulimtately more inward Brunello than the Rennina. Dark wild cherries, plums, tobacco, licorice, spices and menthol are wrapped around a substantial frame of tannic heft. Ideally the wine needs at least another few years in bottle, but it is impossible to miss the wine’s fabulous sense of poise and harmony. As always, Sugarille is a Brunello that speaks with a distinctly Piedmontese accent. It is a beautiful wine by any measure. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Angelo Gaja took advantage of the weak 2005 vintage to restructure his offerings from Montalcino. In that vintage Gaja issued one straight Brunello, which consisted of the best fruit from his Rennina and Sugarille vineyards. The goal was to introduce a new label that has now become the entry-level wine from Pieve Santa Restituta. This allows for Gaja to be even more selective with the wines that carry the single vineyard designations. Unfortunately Gaja chose not to present his straight Brunello, but I will report on that wine as soon as I have chance to taste it. In the meantime, readers will want to focus on the Rennina and Sugarille, both of which are superb Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

This very perfumed red evokes flowers, spices and wild underbrush. This is rich and fleshy, boasting plum, licorice, tar and mineral flavors that get a boost from the firm, lively structure. Shows fine density and extract, with a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2026. 600 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add