Firesteed’s Willamette Valley-designated Pinot Noir benefits from better grapes and, in this instance, a riper vintage, than the Oregon bottlings from 2006 and 2007. This is a chunky, fruity, forward wine, with black cherry the dominant fruit. It’s blocky and quickly turns hard, the tannins showing green tea and herbal flavors. ——P.G.(12/15/2008)—— 86