The name “Nine Popes,” as the story goes, came about when Charlie just wanted to muck up the translation of “Chateauneuf-du-Pape.” And appropriately enough, this is a blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre, an excellent one, with sexy, stewed plum fruit and bready flavors, almost like fruitcake. Smells earthy, with the same sort of fruit; a dose of brown sugar coats the whole package. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 89