Made in a traditional, gravity-operated cellar with 100% Merlot from a densely planted vineyard, this is an impressive wine that manages to tread a fine line between considerable richness and a more restrained, dry tannin and fresh fruit character. Although it does quickly fall apart with decanting or air, it is worth aging, for at least 3–4 years. ——R.V.(12/1/2009)—— 90