The 2009 Chardonnay has slightly funky / sulphide aromas of over notes of ripe apples, cedar and warm peach slices. Very crisp and concentrated in the mouth, it has a nice suggestion of creaminess to the texture and a long applesauce and burnt wood / toast laced finish. Drink it now through 2013. In 2009 the bush fires that raged through the Yarra Valley in early February came dangerously close to Yarra Yering. In my opinion the 2009 range of Yarra Yering wines show signs of smoke taint. The distinctive character isn't overwhelming but it's there. Apart from the smoke taint and the fact that the wines aren't as concentrated or complex as the outstanding 2008s, they are well made and palatable. But collectors be aware, there is a slight burnt-wood / ash character to the wines, showing most in a distinctive and slightly bitter flavor at the back of the palate. Some of the wines display the character more, especially the 2009 Dry Red No 1 and the Underhill Shiraz. Research seems to suggest that the smoke taint character could become more pronounced with aging, so if readers do want to buy these wines I would recommend they drink them sooner rather than later.Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com
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