What a beauty, complex as heck. Starts off with meaty, beefy aromas floating above red cherries, vanilla, cocoa and smoke, and turns intensely rich and delicate in the mouth, offering waves of tart cherry, sweet rhubarb, rose hip tea and spice flavors. So silky and light, yet unstintingly focused. A real accomplishment. ——S.H.(11/1/2004)—— 93