As is common when comparing 2012s and 2011s of the same wine, the 2011 Cotes du Rhone les Quartz is more perfumed and spice-driven, with ripe, up-front notes of black licorice, black cherry, roasted meats and ground herbs all emerging from the glass. A big, rich 2011 that has solid mid-palate depth and sweet tannin, it should be at its best over the coming 4-5 years. Drink now-2018. Located in the northeastern part of Chateauneuf du Pape, and covering 22 acres in the appellation and 110 acres in Cotes du Rhone (most of which are situated around the estate and bordering Chateauneuf du Pape), this benchmark estate is run by Sylvie Vacheron, with Bruno Gaspard assisted by Aude Perch and oenologist Philippe Cambie making the wines. The winemaking here is mostly traditional, yet spans the spectrum with some of their top wines seeing time in some new barrels. While the wines emphasize fruit and texture, they never lose their Southern Rhone souls and age beautifully. The vineyards have been farmed biodynamically since 2003, and the estate was certified Organic in 2010. This is an absolutely stunning set of wines by this team. Moving to the reds, both 2011 and 2012 are very strong here, with the 2011s easily being some of the finest wines in the vintage. Looking at the Chateauneuf du Pape Les Quartz cuvee, which, like the Cotes du Rhone Les Quartz, comes mostly from the rolled pebble soils the region is known for. It is normally a blend of 85% foudre-aged Grenache and 15% barrel-aged Syrah. Compared to the Les Safres, this cuvee is normally more concentrated and structured, with big fruit and an exuberant personality. The most modern-styled of the lineup and coming all from sandy soils (Pignan and Guigasse lieux-dits) and seeing a touch of new demi-muid, the Reserve le Clos du Caillou is always a blend of roughly 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvedre. Importers: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysos Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622; and Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799