The Pichler’s 2006 Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg – like its Gruner Veltliner counterpart – displays imposing richness, but also slight heat. Oily-textured and opulent on the palate, this finishes full and strong, with peach, and black licorice predominating. It does not offer the last word in refinement, and I would be inclined to enjoy it over the next 4-6 years, but this is certainly one big mouthful of wine. Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800

The fruit is superripe and there is generous weight and power. But with its supercharged acidity, the wine also has great balance and freshness, giving no hint of the alcohol, leaving crispness as an antidote to the impressive richness.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 93