Offering lots of blueberry, blackberry, lavender and peppery herbs, the 2015 Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne les Hautes Rives (60% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre and the balance Syrah) is medium-bodied, silky and polished on the palate, with considerable charm and purity. Brought up all in stainless steel, it’s not going to make old bones, but it packs plenty of fruit.