The blackest wine in Tardieu-Laurent's entire portfolio is the 1998 Costieres de Nimes. Made from 60% Syrah, 20% extremely old vine Grenache, and 20% Carignan (that yielded only 15 hectoliters per hectare), this effort achieved 13.5% alcohol naturally. There are approximately 300 cases of this spectacular offering from one of the world's finest sources for high quality wines at reasonable prices. Some readers may find the immense tannin level off-putting, but it possesses hugely concentrated flavors of blackberries, cassis, smoke, dried herbs, and licorice. Amazingly opulent, thick, and succulent, it will always have an uncivilized side, but this is one of the all-time great wine values ever produced. Moreover, it will evolve and become more civilized after 10-12 years of bottle age. Amazing! A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625
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