The 2004 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvee Laurence is far and away the most polished and elegant of the Weinbach ’04 Pinot Gris bottlings. Musky, truffly, honeyed, and nutty aromas, a rich and creamy, piquantly nutty and in no way heavy palate impression, and a honeyed finish fascinatingly tinged with iodine-, lobster shell-like mineral notes combine for compelling, memorable complexity. Like its 2005 counterpart, this should evolve interestingly for at least 7-9 years.The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different bottlings might benefit consumers as well as journalists!Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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