Weingut Prager Smaragd Riesling, Wachau, Austria

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This formidable Riesling needs time. The 2005 Riesling Klaus, at more than twenty grams of residual sugar, transcends the boundaries of Smaragd, although it would be deceptive from a stylistic standpoint to label it as “Auslese.” You couldn’t harvest all of the vineyards that were coming ripe together, Bodenstein explains, and by the time he and his team got to picking Klaus, the fruit was far gone in ripeness. Smoky and nutty in aroma, rich and creamy in texture with marzipan, honey, and poppy seed filling its yeasty, buttery, pastry-like envelope, this opulent entry displays considerable exotic spice and just a hint of warmth in its formidably long finish. The underlying mineral character of this great site begins to emerge as the wine opens in the glass, even as the sheer intensity of fruit, too, seems to grow. This should be fascinating to follow, although it might betray its alcohol more with time. Bodenstein says it is very much like the corresponding 1990, and that wine proved to be extraordinary when opened up alongside.Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Smaragd Kaiserberg ($42.00; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700