Produced from a grand cru vineyard that performed well in this difficult vintage, Olivier Leflaive's 1998 Criots-Batard-Montrachet reveals searing mineral aromas. This creamy, rich, medium to full-bodied wine impressively combines power, richness, and concentration with elegance. Buttered toast, anise, a myriad of spices, as well as sweet lemons and ripe pears can be discerned in this expressive, persistent, and intense wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2006+. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

Refinement and balance are this wine’s hallmarks, with white-peach and tropical-fruit aromas and flavors beautifully enmeshed by honeyed hazelnuts and toast. Despite its obvious richness, this wine is rather unevolved. The expansive, nuanced finish shows superb length and definition. This still needs three or four years for the component parts to fully integrate. ——W.E.(12/31/2001)—— 94