orlando abrigo tutto a mano valmaggiore nebbiolo (nebbiolo d'alba)

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The 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore Tutto a Mano is a touch more floral and spicy than the Langhe Nebbiolo, with an attractive openness to the fruit and less overt oak influence. It, too, is a delicious entry-level Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. This year I tasted a wide range of wines from Abrigo, a small producer who seems to do his best work with Nebbiolo. The Barbareschi in particular are impressive and point to a talented grower who seems to be getting the most from his vineyards. Importer: Vera Food & Wine, Springfield, NJ; tel. (973) 912-0274

Here’s a fresh and focused Nebbiolo from Alba, northern Italy, with sweet berry and cherry nuances backed by crisp and sharp acidity. Pair this wine with foods that have some sort of heavy cheese or cream sauce component. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 86