The medium-bodied 2004 Classic Vintage Brut (68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay aged 3 years in bottle on its yeast) displays a straightforward nose of orange rind, chalk, and honeyed grapefruit. The wine seems slightly more clipped, monolithic, and simple than the other cuvees, but it reveals tiny bubbles as well as impressive purity and freshness. This is an impressive group of sparkling wines from Joy Sterling and her team at Iron Horse.Tel. (707) 887-1507; fax (707) 887-1337

The blend this vintage was 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay. The wine is a bit softer than some of Iron Horse’s other bubblies, and less woody, with a higher dosage that adds a touch of honey to the lime zest and yeast. Drink this elegant wine now–2014.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 92