Keenan Winery Spring Mountain District Mailbox Vineyard Reserve Merlot, Napa Valley, USA

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The 2007 Merlot Reserve Mailbox Vineyard (350 cases of 100% Merlot) is one of the most backward, tannic, structured Merlots from Napa Valley. That said, this opaque purple-hued wine reveals hints of tremendous richness and intensity as well as abundant notes of cocoa, chocolate, wood spice, and red and black fruits. The tannins kick in at the end, and the wine seems atypically structured and accessible for a Merlot, but it is locked and loaded. Most Merlot lovers will probably find it too backward and inaccessible at present, but after 4-5 years of cellaring, it should turn out to be a fascinating example of Merlot from Spring Mountain. It, too, should evolve for 25+ years. As I have written in the past, Michael Keenan has done a fabulous job of ratcheting up the quality of the wines from this Spring Mountain estate. Some of the finest wines of Napa Valley are emerging from Robert Keenan Winery.Tel. (707) 963-9177; Fax (707) 963-8209

Just delicious, an important, elegant Merlot to drink with the finest steaks and chops. Even better than the fine 2006, with vast, deep flavors of blackberries, black cherries, cocoa, grilled meat and herbs, wrapped into rich, smooth tannins. Gets better and better as it warms in the glass. Drink over the next six years. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 94