The 2007 Pinot Noir Estate Reserve is a suave, velvety wine with an alluring perfume of smoke and toasty red fruits. More concentrated and riper than the Estate bottling, this stylish effort will evolve for 1-2 years and offer prime drinking from 2011 to 2019. It is one of the stars of the vintage. A visit to The Eyrie Vineyards where Jason Lett presides is like getting a history lesson in how wine used to be made (and some might say still should be made). From the grape growing through the elevage, this is an artisanal, non-interventionist, unique operation that continues to turn out some of the most fascinating wines on the planet. Knowing Eyrie Pinot Noir’s propensity for longevity, my drinking windows are likely to seem conservative a decade from now.Tel. (503) 472-6315; www.eyrievineyards.com